Stone, Wind and Women

A few days shy of two months ago, I landed on Jeju island, South Korea as I noted in my last posting. I leave this evening, flying a total of 15 hours back to Arkansas.  Arrivals and departures, especially departures, put me in a reflective mood – when some of what I expected and much I did not – are behind me.

Since I had never heard of Jeju six months ago, I had little in the way of expectations, no list of "must sees." Only in skimming  a VisitJeju booklet, did I learn of Jeju's Three Abundances,  Stone, Wind and Women. The Women part didn't surprise me because of what I knew of the respected position of haenyo, who free dive in the oceans around the island for seafood to support themselves and their families. But that was only a small piece of what there was to learn. 
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So I made a plan to  explore the abundances –and more – each week. With international driver's license in hand and indispensable  navigation system I named, "Gertrude," I  headed out in our little leased car.

I quickly discovered that stones would be constant companions on every trip, volcanic rocks which have been present since the island's creation. They are everywhere – lining roads, separating properties, delineating rows of crops or simply laying around, waiting to be useful.
Stone statues, or Dol hareabang (stone grandfathers) intrigued me the most. Dotting the island, they and their ancestors have guarded Jeju from evil spirits for over 500 years. Their solemn faces express the serious work they're charged to do, yet they seem approachable, even welcoming. However, as I placed my hand on this grandfather's shoulder in a friendly greeting, I felt  the pronounced  roughness of the rock and knew he was not to be trifled with. Stepping back, I assured him that I was no evil spirit and thanked him and his fellow guardians for their protection as I traveled around the island.

The wind was fickle during my outings. Some days it was barely a breeze; others it blew with such intensity that if I didn't grab my hat fast enough, it would be lost in an instant. I wondered how some of the stone structures, stacked with no more support than the rocks themselves, withstood powerful blasts of wind. What else? The  inventive builders simply leave holes among the stones so winds can pass through freely.

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One of my favorite drives was along a coast lined with wind turbines, which rose peacefully from  the bluest waters I have ever seen.  Their graceful blades catch the incoming gusts and spin them into energy for thousands of Jeju households.

Women, the third abundance, became personal when I met three haenyo the day they visited Branksome Hall Asia, the school where Drew is working as high school principal this year. I listened in respectful silence with a group of students as the haenyo invited us to imagine what it is like to hold our breaths as we dive meters below often frigid seas, to harvest abalone, octopus, seaweed, sea urchins... for four, five, six hours at a time. 

Of course, haeyno are not the only women on Jeju. There are thousands of others who exemplify the same characteristics symbolized by the lives of the haenyo – strength, courage, resilience, determination. Generations of women have worked diligently in the face of hardship, including unspeakably violent conflict on Jeju, to keep their families safe and well. 

On one of my final outings, I was exploring a coastal area known for its geologic formations  when I came across a small building close to the beach. The door was open and I glanced inside as I heard women talking and laughing. Tubs of sea urchin and octopus were scattered at their feet. I timidly stepped one foot inside and said, "haenyo?" They nodded. I bowed and pointed to my phone, asking permission to take their picture. One of them gave me a brief wave, which I took as a yes, as she returned to their animated conversation.

Three abundances.
​There are, of course, a wealth of others. I will add them to my list when I return in the spring.
For now, I leave with memories, more abundant than I could have  ever expected.