Back in Jeju

​I left Jeju last November as the days were growing shorter, the air cooler and the winds gustier. I returned two weeks ago to cherry blossoms, camillas, vast fields of yellow canola flowers and wind – always wind on Jeju – one of its Three Abundances. (refer to previous blog post)
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By the time I leave in May, the island will have returned to the lushness of its green grasses, shrubs, dense forests and invasive kudzu vines. Drew will follow me home in June when he completes his year as interim high school principal at Branksome Hall Asia international school. 

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I'm on my own most of the time while Drew works, so I continue exploring the island in our subcompact (tiny) Hyundai Casper. The navigation system, which I've named Gertrude (who knows why?), is my loyal traveling companion. She's nothing if not efficient with exact directions and unending commentary... "watch out for speed bumps ahead; in 300 meters take the next left – be careful not to take the wrong road; slow down, you're entering a school zone, slow down." I would turn her off, but am quite certain she would take offense. 

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Last week I discovered the most delicious sweet treat I've enjoyed so far in all my explorations around the island. Even the sign – a swirl of ice cream wearing a hat? – distracted me from the main purpose of my visit to the village of Aewol, the ocean. 
With the help of Google Translate, I asked the clerk, "What is the name?" as I pointed to the sign. She replied, in Google Translate, "Bread and Ice Cream." What else?
I immediately ordered one then sat at a nearby table savoring the sweet and salty combination, as the roll released its sea salt sprinkles. To my delight, the remaining 2/3 of the roll was hidden under mounds of rich vanilla cream.  Maybe after a walk along the ocean I would work up an appetite for seconds.

Aewol, a village on Jeju's northwest shore, is described in my guidebook as a "hidden gem," although the shortage of empty parking spots and bus loads of school groups and tourists were clues that it has been discovered.  I took the remaining bites of my Bread and Ice Cream along as I located one of the entrances to the Handam Trail, a paved path that follows the curve of the coastline for 1.2 km.  I will let my photos speak for the beauty, and simply say that I was mesmerized by every imaginable shade of blue, dramatic formations of lava rock and the interplay of the two by the ever-present wind. 

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I had no need to return for more ice cream. I had been filled.